Expressions of power

But tastes change; what were the trappings of power in one decade may make everyone cringe in the next. Take clothes. Back in the 1980s, "power dressers" donned pin-striped suits with armoured shoulder pads to communicate money and influence. Then, at the height of dotcom mania, the "dress down" craze saw billionaires don baseball caps and cargo pants. Today's power look is about refined understatement; suits are back but in a less formal style, as it is considered uncool to flaunt power aggressively.

Similarly, aggressive body language is a thing of the past: real power today comes through using charm and making people feel comfortable.

By way of example, commentators point to the differences between the two most powerful people in the country: prime minister Tony Blair and chancellor Gordon Brown. While Brown comes across as authoritarian and intransigent, Blair tries to empathise with his audience. It's no surprise that many believe Brown's inappropriate style may prevent him from achieving his ambition of becoming prime minister.

So what should you do to project the right image? Building has prepared a guide to 2001's power look.

Clothes
Savile Row is back: suit sales have increased 10% this year. "Tailoring is back for men and women," says Catherine Hayward, fashion editor on GQ magazine. "Since the e-commerce bubble burst, you won't be taken seriously unless you are wearing a suit."

The classic-cut two-piece is the height of fashion, but not in its bulky 1980s guise. "The collections for summer 2002 are about style and comfort," says Hayward. "The cuts are smart, but the fabrics are casual." Blazers are also making a comeback but the executive colours are electric blue, lilacs and pinks, not grey and black. Expensive accessories, such as belts, buttons and watches are "hugely important".

When he makes a point, he cups his hand and draws it into his body. The message is: come with me

Robert Phipps on Tony Blair’s empathic body language

Overall, Hayward says, today's suit commands respect but "still says 'you can call me John'."

Body talk
"You can spot a person lacking in confidence from 50 yards – more if your eyesight is good," says Robert Phipps, managing director of Body Language Training UK. Non-verbal communication accounts for about 55% of how we are perceived – and most people will judge whether they like or respect a person within 10 seconds of meeting them. "This leaves you with little time to get it right," says Phipps.

Walk with shoulders comfortably back and chin slightly raised. Hand gestures speak volumes. Phipps takes the example of the prime minister: "When he makes a point, he cups his hand and draws it into his body. The message is: 'Come with me'."

Women are better at communicating through their movements, he says. "Women intuitively respond to a person in their company, mirroring their movements. They are also able to flirt without diluting the message that they are powerful. The message is 'I'm playing with you', which can confirm their power."

The car
Black, whale-sized cars are out; small, sleek and silver is in. David Motton, consumer editor at What Car? magazine, says executives are heading for "friendlier" looking models such as the curvy Audi TT rather than large, angular BMWs and Bentleys. Mercedes has caught on to the trend and has seen sales rise 38% for its new S-class series. "The old S-class Mercedes looked as though it had been hewn out of rock and had a bullying presence. But the new series looks lighter and sleeker," says Motton. BMW's new seven series uses softer edges to give a friendlier look, and Jaguar has downsized its X-type model.

Networking
Powerful people arrive at a venue slightly late and leave early. "This tactic allows people to create an air of aloofness and sends out the message 'I am very busy; I have important matters to attend to'," says Body Language Training UK's Phipps.

And the days of the boozy power lunch are over; it is no longer a sign of virility to drink your juniors under the table. "After the excesses and long lunches of the 1980s, people now recognise that powerful people get to where they are through hard work," says Sue Brown, partner at public relations firm Tamesis.

Communication
Speaking well in public is no easy feat. "You tread a fine line between expressing your power and coming across as arrogant," says Nicholas Stephens, director of communications consultancy Dramatic Difference. Stephens warns against using corporate speech: "Write your speech, then simplify it. The best speakers use everyday language; look at how effectively Churchill used the phrase 'iron curtain'. It was graphic, and his audience could relate to it."

Stephens believes that executives could learn from techniques used in the theatre. Actors speak from the diaphragm rather than the throat, which gives the voice more resonance and helps it last through a long speech. Breathe deeply and slightly lower the pitch of your voice when you want to emphasise a particular word. "This gives your voice a wider range of pitches so it doesn't become a monotone," he says.